EXP.'s favourite Onsen in Yugawara

Yugawara is often overshadowed by the high-traffic Hakone onsen district, but for those who value architectural integrity and a deeper connection to water, this town is the true hidden gem of onsen in Japan. At EXP., we view the Japanese onsen not just as a bath, but as a wider, "nude architecture". Spaces where the built environment disappears to facilitate a direct dialogue with nature and self.

Understanding the onsen meaning, literally "hot spring" is key to appreciating why we have curated this specific list. While famous destinations like the willow-lined Kinosaki onsen or the snowy, nostalgic Ginzan onsen offer incredible atmosphere, Yugawara provides a more intimate, intellectual retreat. Originally a strategic 12th-century healing site where samurai nursed the war-wounds, Yugawara evolved from a "Hot Spring for Wounds" into a premier Meiji-era literary retreat where masters like Natsume Soseki and Kunikida Doppo immortalised the springs in their finest works. Throughout this blog, we have also sought the expert opinion of EXP. architect, and resident onsen expert, Yuval Zohar. He is a literal scholar of the topic, following in the footsteps of Yugawara's previous literary denizens, he resides in the onsen town and published a book on the subject, Towards a Nude Architecture: A Visual Compendium of Japanese Hot Springs.

Now, without further ado, onto the hot springs! 

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EXP._Co-Onsen

Concept

EXP._Co-Onsen's identity is built on two key concepts; totonou and breaking down barriers. Totonou is the euphoric state achieved by cycling through extreme heat and cold plunge. EXP._Co-Onsen leans into this with its three baths, and sauna. These baths are also a feature of 'breaking down barriers. Of the three baths, two of them are hinoki tubs - however one is an outdoor rotenburo, and the other is an indoor mirror image of it; placed opposite the rotenburo separated only by a pane of glass. This theme of blurred barriers is reflected thorughout the property and garden, meant to inspire its guests to think beyond their own lived experience.

EXP._Co-Onsen is a private onsen, that you can access by booking the property overnight.

Yuval's Review

Three private onsen in a renovated traditional Japanese house would be a dream for anyone visiting Japan looking for an authentic bathing experience, and the added sauna is the cherry on top. The stone onsen, hinoki (Japanese cypress) onsen, and outside rotenburo baths are all unique in their own way, and as they are directly connected to a hot spring source (the black taps), the bathing experience is co-onsen is a deeply unique and satisfying one. If you happen to get in a lucky visit during the bright red leafing of the Japanese maple tree that looms above the outdoor bath, you might understand why Yugawara has such a storied history of poets and authors who came to soak in the local hot springs while developing their seminal works.

Notes

• EXP._Co-Onsen is a private property you can book for you and your friends. As such, it is completely tattoo friendly!
• The house is big enough for 8 people! bring your friends and family
• Despite the address technically being in Atami, EXP._Co-Onsen is in yugawara, and is a short walk from the town centre. Just another way that it blurs borders.
• The garden is another special feature. landscaped by renowned architect Michio Tase, it highlights local non-invasive flora and fauna, and natural flow. Take a walk around it and enjoy the grounds.

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Enso (湯河原リトリート円荘)

Concept

Run by friend of EXP., Yuji, Enso Retreat is a boutique art-and-wellness lodging facility focusing on the Zen concept of the Enshō (circle). It is a simple, minimal retreat for those that wish to slow down and disconnect from the unnecessary. The owner describes it as "neither a hotel nor a traditional Japanese inn. I see it as a modest retreat for those who enjoy simple travel."
Despite this, the 100 year old building houses a gallery filled with contemporary art, and hot spring baths to unwind in.

Yuval's Review

A great inn with a cheerful proprietor, Hattori san is a connoisseur of coffee, food, and craft. He often hosts artists or chefs in residence at Enso, adding a much appreciated layer of culture to the town. While he partners with a nearby onsen that is opened for his guests rather than one directly in the building, it is a refreshing bath in a charming part of town.

Notes

• Enso is surrounded by the small businesses of Yugawara, the owner recommends Sakaba Musubu, a local bar.
• Even though Enso is surrounded by great businesses, you are also free to enjoy some drinks in the communal space downstairs! 
• The gallery is filled with contemporary art, in both finished and unfinished sates. The owner displays the art like this so that guests can experience the artist's creative process.
• Although there is no hot spring inside Enso, guests can enjoy bathing at the two sister onsen of the hotel
  
  • Yumoto-komachi kan
  • Mizunokaori
• The perfect way to explore a little more of Yugawara.

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Yugawara Soyu

Concept

Located within the renovated Manyo Park, this facility is a "Books & Retreat" concept that reimagines the Japanese onsen as a literary sanctuary. It is divided into two distinct areas: the Entrance Terrace (a public cafe and free footbath) and the Soyu Terrace (a dedicated, paid bathing and lounge area). The architecture is designed to blur the lines between the indoor library and the surrounding forest, focusing on the sensory sounds of the adjacent Chitose River. This form encourages the practice of "forest bathing".

Yuval's Review

Located in the heart of Manyo park, this day use onsen is highly regarded for its architecture and bath quality. Although a bit pricey, it is a great retreat in the middle of nature. The venue features two large baths separated by gender, and one bookable private bath a short walk deeper into the forest. The second floor has a serene library filled with great selections (you might even happen upon a certian book about onsen and architecture by this very reviewer♨︎). Reservations are often required, 3,300JPY gets you a 3-hour stay with one free drink (I recommend trying the famous Yugawara orange juice), and 6,500 yen for a 5-hour stay with a full meal. Note that this bathhosue is currenly closed for renovations.

Notes

• Architect os Soyu said that "The aim is to be able to take a bath while enjoying nature, in terraces scattered in the forest,’ Oka explains. ‘I wanted to create different kinds of experiences to enjoy in nature, such as bathing in a hot spring, reading a book, drinking a coffee, or simply walking around."
• Soyu is split into two parts,
  
  • Genkan terrace - a renovated community space with a cafe, co-working space and hot spring footbath.
  • Soyu terrace - a network of minimalist black wood pavilions with hot spring onsen baths, a restaurant and a library.
• The restaurant highlights seasonal produce served in oryoki bowls.
  
  • These are sets of nested bowls traditionally used by Buddhist monks. The word means “vessel that contains just enough."
• Soyu is a day use facility, so come, enjoy the waters, books, food, and nature, and head back to your hotel.

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Kogome-no-yu

Concept

As the town’s primary municipal bathhouse, Kogome-no-yu serves as the social and communal heart of Yugawara. It is designed for high-capacity public use, featuring large indoor and outdoor pools that offer a classic, "no-frills" Japanese onsen experience focused on community health and local accessibility rather than tourist luxury. This is a genuine local onsen experience.

Yuval's Review

Perhaps the most famous day use onsen in town, Kogomenoyu is a convenient for a first dip before getting into the more exciting baths in town. There are two large separated gender bathing spaces, with outdoor massage bookings, in a large building just by Manyo Park.Insider tip- if you can handle the heat, mamanenoyu is considered to be the best bath quality in town. It's small, quaint, and often exclusively patroned by ojisan, but at 48°C, it is a trial by fire of sorts.

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Notes

• Keep an eye out for the facility’s resident cat! It’s become a bit of a local celebrity.
• another highlight of Kogome-no-yu is the second floor relaxation area. Even though the views from the baths are great, the views from up here are even better.
• After 7pm, the prices for accessing this public onsen go off-peak! 
• Because this is a public hub, you should make an effort to practice onsen etiquette. Remember to sit on the stools while showering and keep your hair and towels completely out of the communal water.
• The men’s and women’s baths are swapped daily between the "Manyo-no-yu" and "Kogome-no-yu" sides. Each side has a slightly different layout and view, so if you go two days in a row, you’ll get a completely different architectural perspective.