A Land Shaped by Mountains
Japan is a country defined by its mountains. With roughly 70% of its landmass covered in mountains, Japan offers an impressive landscape sculpted by tectonic forces. As part of the Ring of Fire, the archipelago hosts more than 200 volcanoes, 60 of which remain active. Nowhere is this more evident than the dramatic Japanese Alps, a range that runs down the spine of Honshu and features elevations exceeding 3,000 meters. This topography has not only shaped the land itself but also the way people live, travel, and connect with nature.
Mountains as Sacred Spaces
Unlike in many Western countries, where mountain climbing developed primarily as a sport or a conquest, Japan’s historical relationship with its peaks is deeply spiritual. For centuries, mountains have been venerated as the abodes of kami (gods) and buddha. This reverence is at the heart of Japan’s indigenous religion, Shinto, which sees divine presence in natural phenomena. Mountain ascetics known as yamabushi once trekked into the highlands to undertake spiritual training, seeking enlightenment through intense solitary journeys. Over time, these practices laid the foundation for a unique cultural appreciation of mountain climbing as a path to self-discovery.
During the Edo period (1603-1868), mountain pilgrimages grew in popularity among the general public. While the spiritual roots remained intact, hiking gradually became more recreational. Infrastructure like mountain ryokan and maintained trails began to appear. Post-WWII, climbing clubs and outdoor communities flourished, attracting both Japanese and international enthusiasts.
Kumano Kodo: Pilgrimage Through Nature
Winding through the forested mountains of the Kii Peninsula, the Kumano Kodo is a network of ancient pilgrimage routes that trace back over 1,000 years. These trails connect three grand shrines: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha, collectively known as the Kumano Sanzan. Pilgrims from all levels of society, from emperors to samurai to commoners, once walked these trails seeking purification and spiritual connection.
Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Kumano Kodo is one of only two pilgrimage networks in the world (alongside Spain’s Camino de Santiago) to hold this distinction. Today’s hikers can choose from five main routes: the Kohechi, Nakahechi, Ohechi, Omine-Okugakemichi, and Iseji routes. Each of these offer their own distinct mix of history, nature, and culture.
Walking the Kumano Kodo is a multi-sensory journey through cedar forests, across coastal pathways, and into towns that open their arms to travelers. Along the way, hikers can expect to encounter wildlife like deer and monkeys, seasonal blooms like cherry blossoms in spring and crimson leaves in autumn, and the delicious seafood cuisine of the area served in local ryokan and minshuku (guesthouses).
Nakasendo: Time-Frozen Beauty
For a glimpse into Japan’s feudal past, few routes compare to the Nakasendo. The name literally means “inner mountain road”, because it once linked Kyoto and Edo (modern-day Tokyo), serving as one of five official highways under the Tokugawa Shogunate. Travelers ranged from feudal lords and their retinues to merchants, monks, and commoners, all navigating the 69 post towns, or shukuba-machi, dotting its path.
Many of these towns, particularly those in the Kiso Valley like Magome and Tsumago, have been beautifully preserved. With their cobblestone streets, wooden ryokan, and absence of modern clutter like cars or vending machines, they offer a trip back in time to Edo-era Japan. The 8km stretch between Magome and Tsumago is a particularly popular section that’s accessible, scenic, and rich in historical charm.
These post towns once functioned as logistical hubs, offering food, lodging, and information to weary travelers. Today, they serve as open-air museums and atmospheric retreats where modern hikers can savor regional specialties, rest in traditional ryokan, and walk the same cobbled roads as samurai once did.
Modern Trail Culture
Modern hiking in Japan blends deep-rooted tradition with practical etiquette and a sense of community. On the trail, greetings like konnichiwa or ohayō gozaimasu are common, serving as polite acknowledgements and safety checks alike. On tougher slopes, you may hear a friendly ganbatte to offer encouragement, reinforcing shared experience rather than a solitary pursuit. Passing someone on a steep incline? A gentle osaki ni (“excuse me, I’ll go ahead”) shows both humility and courtesy.
Trail etiquette is meticulous. Uphill climbers are typically given the right of way, and stepping to the mountain side rather than the valley side is standard for safety. Littering is taboo, so hikers bring small bags to carry out everything they bring in, down to their tissues. You’ll even find that smokers bring portable ashtrays to avoid leaving a mess! Straying from the path is discouraged, not only for safety but also to protect fragile ecosystems. Even without fences, there’s a shared understanding: stick to the trail, and leave no trace.
This mindful hiking culture reflects broader Japanese values of harmony, responsibility, and communal awareness. Each step is not just a physical act but a social contract with the mountain, with fellow hikers, and with those who will come after.
More Than a Hike
From ancient ascetics to Edo-era merchants and today’s weekend trekkers, the act of hiking in Japan is steeped in meaning. It’s a physical activity, yes, but a cultural journey too. Japan’s mountains are not just elevations on a map. They are sacred spaces, historic byways, and natural sanctuaries that continue to shape the country’s identity.
Whether you’re following in the footsteps of pilgrims on the Kumano Kodo or reliving Edo-era journeys on the Nakasendo, hiking in Japan offers a connection to history, spirit, and the land itself. For travelers seeking more than just scenic views, the mountains invite reflection, reverence, and a deeper understanding of Japan’s enduring hiking culture.
